Magic kids sweater
‘Unicorn’
Now it becomes magical – when a unicorn sweater is needled on with the addiUnicorn circular knitting needle, the unicorn happiness is perfect!
The result is a cuddly sweater that makes the hearts of every little unicorn fan beat faster. A tutorial in cooperation with Elisa
- 10-12 balls of “Elisa Merino 120” = 110 yd/ 1.76 oz (120m/50g)
-
addiUnicorn Circular knitting neelde US 7 (4,5 mm)
-
addiCraSyTrio Long or DPN (4,5 mm)
500-600 g
k = knit
CO = cast on
st/s = stitch/es
k = knit
CO = cast on
st/s = stitch/es
Pattern
- Row 1 (ws): edg st, [k1, p1], edg st.
-
Row 2 (rs): edg st, [k1, p1], edg st.
- Round 1: [ 1 k, 1 p ]
- Row 1 (ws): edg st, p all sts, edg st.
-
Row 2 (rs): edg st, k all sts, edg st.
Pattern
- Row 1 (ws): edg st, [k1, p1], edg st.
-
Row 2 (rs): edg st, [k1, p1], edg st.
- Round 1: [ 1 k, 1 p ]
- Row 1 (ws): edg st, p all sts, edg st.
-
Row 2 (rs): edg st, k all sts, edg st.
Knitt Magic kids sweater “Unicorn"
Work the sweater in 4 parts: back, front and arms.
After closing the side and shoulder seams, the sleeves are inserted. The collar is worked last.
- You’ll work 1 edge stitch (= edg st) at the beginning and 1 edge stitch at the end of each row. Work a knotted edge.
- Specifications for the sizes are described in the following breakdown: 92-98/104-110/116 (US-sizes: 2-3 T/3-5 T/5-6).
- If only one information is given, it applies to all sizes.
- Repeat stitches [in brackets].
Knitt Magic kids sweater “Unicorn"
Work the sweater in 4 parts: back, front and arms.
After closing the side and shoulder seams, the sleeves are inserted. The collar is worked last.
- You’ll work 1 edge stitch (= edg st) at the beginning and 1 edge stitch at the end of each row. Work a knotted edge.
- Specifications for the sizes are described in the following breakdown: 92-98/104-110/116 (US-sizes: 2-3 T/3-5 T/5-6).
- If only one information is given, it applies to all sizes.
- Repeat stitches [in brackets].
Back
CO: 70/76/82 sts (including 2 edg sts) with grey yarn and needle 4,5 mm (US 7).
- Start with the 1/1-Ribbing – Pattern A1.
- After 1.6″/4 cm (= 12 rows) from CO change to stockinette stitch – Pattern B.
- After another 13.4/14.6/15.7″ – 34/37/40 cm (= 108/118/128 rows) bind off all stitches loosely.
Back
CO: 70/76/82 sts (including 2 edg sts) with grey yarn and needle 4,5 mm (US 7).
- Start with the 1/1-Ribbing – Pattern A1.
- After 1.6″/4 cm (= 12 rows) from CO change to stockinette stitch – Pattern B.
- After another 13.4/14.6/15.7″ – 34/37/40 cm (= 108/118/128 rows) bind off all stitches loosely.
Front
CO: 70/76/82 sts (including 2 edg sts) with grey yarn and needle 4,5 mm (US 7).
- Start with the 1/1-Ribbing – Pattern A1.
- After 1.6″/4 cm (= 12 rows) from CO change to stockinette stitch – Pattern B.
- Now, choose one of the following techniques:
Technique 1: Jacquard
This means that you work the chart with all colors and carry the respective threads behind the work.
Technique 2: Duplicate stitch
Here the front part is worked completely in gray and the chart pattern will be embroidered in duplicate stitch afterward:
- Poke the embroidery thread out in the middle of the stitch below, pass the needle under the stitch above from right to left and poke back into the stitched area.
Front
CO: 70/76/82 sts (including 2 edg sts) with grey yarn and needle 4,5 mm (US 7).
- Start with the 1/1-Ribbing – Pattern A1.
- After 1.6″/4 cm (= 12 rows) from CO change to stockinette stitch – Pattern B.
- Now, choose one of the following techniques:
Technique 1: Jacquard
This means that you work the chart with all colors and carry the respective threads behind the work.
Technique 2: Duplicate stitch
Here the front part is worked completely in gray and the chart pattern will be embroidered in duplicate stitch afterward:
- Poke the embroidery thread out in the middle of the stitch below, pass the needle under the stitch above from right to left and poke back into the stitched area.
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- In both versions, bind off 4/6/8 sts in the middle for the collar after you have worked 10.6/11.8/13″ – 27/30/33 cm high (= 86/96/106 rows) from ribbing.
- From now on, the shoulders are worked separately.
- In every 2nd row, 10×1 sts are decreased at the inner edge for the neckline.
- The work is finished after 2.8″/7 cm (= 22 rows). Bind off the remaining sts loosely.
- In both versions, bind off 4/6/8 sts in the middle for the collar after you have worked 10.6/11.8/13″ – 27/30/33 cm high (= 86/96/106 rows) from ribbing.
- From now on, the shoulders are worked separately.
- In every 2nd row, 10×1 sts are decreased at the inner edge for the neckline.
- The work is finished after 2.8″/7 cm (= 22 rows). Bind off the remaining sts loosely.
Sleeves
CO: 38/40/42 sts (including 2 edg sts) with grey yarn and needle 4,5 mm (US 7).
- Start with the 1/1-Ribbing – Pattern A1.
- After 1.6″/4 cm (= 12 rows) from CO change to stockinette stitch – Pattern B. Work a back row.
- While knitting in pattern B, you will work stripes and increases. Read the instruction before you start!:
- Increase 1 st at the beginning and end of the next row,
- then in every 4th row increase 1 st at the beginning and end of the row 7/6/5 times.
- and in every 8th row increase 1 st at the beginning and end of the row 2/4/6 times (= 58/62/66 sts).
Sleeves
CO: 38/40/42 sts (including 2 edg sts) with grey yarn and needle 4,5 mm (US 7).
- Start with the 1/1-Ribbing – Pattern A1.
- After 1.6″/4 cm (= 12 rows) from CO change to stockinette stitch – Pattern B. Work a back row.
- While knitting in pattern B, you will work stripes and increases. Read the instruction before you start!:
- Increase 1 st at the beginning and end of the next row,
- then in every 4th row increase 1 st at the beginning and end of the row 7/6/5 times.
- and in every 8th row increase 1 st at the beginning and end of the row 2/4/6 times (= 58/62/66 sts).
Work the stripes in the following order while increasing as described above:
| 4 rows | YELLOW |
| 2 rows | GREY |
| 4 rows | BLUE |
| 2 rows | GREY |
| 4 rows | VIOLET |
| 2 rows | GREY |
| 4 rows | PINK |
| 2 rows | GREY |
| 4 rows | LIGHT PINK |
Work the stripes in the following order while increasing as described above:
| 4 rows | YELLOW |
| 2 rows | GREY |
| 4 rows | BLUE |
| 2 rows | GREY |
| 4 rows | VIOLET |
| 2 rows | GREY |
| 4 rows | PINK |
| 2 rows | GREY |
| 4 rows | LIGHT PINK |
- Change color and work with GREY yarn again.
- At the height of 7.5/8.7/9.8″ – 19/22/25 cm (from the end of the cuff), loosely bind off all sts.
- Repeat the instructions for the 2nd sleeve.
- Change color and work with GREY yarn again.
- At the height of 7.5/8.7/9.8″ – 19/22/25 cm (from the end of the cuff), loosely bind off all sts.
- Repeat the instructions for the 2nd sleeve.
Finishing
- Block the pieces wet.
- Close the side and shoulder seams (observe the pattern – the pink lines show the relevant seam).
- Insert sleeves.
Now the collar is worked
- With addiCraSyTrio Long or dpn’s knit 56/60/64 sts out of the collar and stark working in 1/1 Ribbing in the round – Pattern A2.
- After 1.2″/3 cm bind off loosely.
- Weave in all ends.
A pattern in cooperations with Elisa (DE).
Finishing
- Block the pieces wet.
- Close the side and shoulder seams (observe the pattern – the pink lines show the relevant seam).
- Insert sleeves.
Now the collar is worked
- With addiCraSyTrio Long or dpn’s knit 56/60/64 sts out of the collar and stark working in 1/1 Ribbing in the round – Pattern A2.
- After 1.2″/3 cm bind off loosely.
- Weave in all ends.
A pattern in cooperations with Elisa (DE).
