Knitting instructions
Raglan cardigan top-down knitting
Knitting a customised cardigan has never been easier. Easy to follow and adaptable for any size - with any yarn and for any body type.
These cardigan instructions will work for children and adults, men and women, as the instructions are customised to your measurements and yarn.
A top-down raglan cardigan can be tried on and adapted during knitting. It also works for any textured pattern.
Table of contents
Step-by-step guide to knitting a cardigan
Our step-by-step guide shows you how to knit a raglan cardigan. We recommend reading the instructions in full and deciding which steps you want to knit. All the necessary calculations can be made right at the beginning using the gauge.
What you need
Knitting needles:
- set of interchangeable knitting needles, e.g. addiClick and addiClick Short matching your yarn (and optional 1 set of smaller needles (approx. 1 number/0.5 mm) for the ribbing)
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1 addiClick Seil approx. 47-60” (120-150 cm)
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for the sleeves: 1 pair of addiClick Short Tips + 2 addiClick cords, approx. 16” (40 cm) + 2 addiClick connectors (or 2 circular needles for the magic loop technique or 2 addiCraSyTrios)
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optional: 1 further addiClick cord to extend the cord and 2 addi HeartStopers to prevent the stiches from slipping from the needles while trying on the cardigan
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alternatively: circular needles matching your yarn (and 1 set of smaller needles (approx. 1 number/0.5 mm) for the ribbing) in different lengths (approx. 16” and 47-60” [40 and 100-120 cm])
Other materials:
- 10 stitch markers (preferably open ones)
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yarn in your preferred weight (see Yarn consumption)
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scissors and tapestry needle
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optional: buttons, hooks or ties to close the cardigan
What is raglan and how does it work?
The term ‘raglan’ describes a sweater or cardigan construction that, starting with the cast-on at the neck, allows you to knit the garment top-down and in one piece without any seams. By increasing at 4 points distributed along the sleeves, front(s) and back, you form the distinctive raglan lines running from the neck down while the garment’s circumference increases evenly. This way, a complete cardigan can be worked in one piece. This construction allows you to knit cardigans and sweaters with any kind of neck shaping. Calculating the necessary numbers of stitches is very easy, thanks to the Raglan Calculator in this app.
The advantages: The garment grows in one piece and can be tried on at any time during knitting. No sewing different pieces together. A raglan garment can be customised and adapted perfectly for any body type. This can be achieved by simply increasing until the circumference of the garment fits your body and the knitted piece reaches your underarms, before dividing the stitches to form the sleeves and the body.
Step by step to your first raglan cardigan
Raglan knitting for beginners
Have you never knitted a raglan cardigan before? Then simply follow these step-by-step instructions and knit a cardigan from your favourite yarn, exactly the way you want it.
This is what you need to do first:
- Buy enough yarn of one colour batch
- Depending on the length and size of the knitwear, rather buy one ball more than too few, because yarn from a different batch will never look exactly the same later on and may result in unwanted stripes in the knitted item.
- Opt for a length and cut of the raglan cardigan.
- Decide if you want the cardigan longer or shorter.
- If the sleeves should taper towards the bottom or remain wider (increased yarn consumption)
- How the jacket is to be closed when finished (e.g. with a button placket added later or i-Cord = increased yarn consumption
- Select a knitting pattern and make a gauge in the pattern.
- Lay the gauge down loosely and measure it with a counting frame. How many stitches are needed for a square that is 10 cm wide and 10 cm high?
Tip for beginners: For the first cardigan, choose a thicker yarn (e.g. needle size US 8 (5 mm) or higher) so that you can see the stitches better and finish the cardigan a little faster.
Step by step to your first raglan cardigan
Raglan knitting for beginners
Have you never knitted a raglan cardigan before? Then simply follow these step-by-step instructions and knit a cardigan from your favourite yarn, exactly the way you want it.
This is what you need to do first:
- Buy enough yarn of one colour batch
- Depending on the length and size of the knitwear, rather buy one ball more than too few, because yarn from a different batch will never look exactly the same later on and may result in unwanted stripes in the knitted item.
- Opt for a length and cut of the raglan cardigan.
- Decide if you want the cardigan longer or shorter.
- If the sleeves should taper towards the bottom or remain wider (increased yarn consumption)
- How the jacket is to be closed when finished (e.g. with a button placket added later or i-Cord = increased yarn consumption
- Select a knitting pattern and make a gauge in the pattern.
- Lay the gauge down loosely and measure it with a counting frame. How many stitches are needed for a square that is 10 cm wide and 10 cm high?
Tip for beginners: For the first cardigan, choose a thicker yarn (e.g. needle size US 8 (5 mm) or higher) so that you can see the stitches better and finish the cardigan a little faster.
Abbreviations and knitting techniques:
Abbreviations
- k = rechte Masche(n) stricken
-
p = linke Masche(n) stricken
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sm = stitch marker
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p = purl
k = knit
CO = cast on
st/s = stitch/es -
Zun = Zunahme
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abh = abheben
Working right-leaning and left-leaning increases:
- right-leaning = Insert the left needle back to front under the strand of yarn running horizontally between the next stitch and the last stitch on the right needle, then knit it.
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left-leaning = Insert the left needle front to back under the strand of yarn running horizontally between the next stitch and the last stitch on the right needle, then knit it through the back loop.
Step 1
Yarn consumption
You can knit a raglan cardigan in any size and any length you wish. The yarn consumption stated here is a reference for a cardigan of medium length. Depending on your individual shape, sleeve and body length, or an additional collar etc., you should purchase a sufficient amount of yarn of the same dye lot.
– Size S, medium length - approx. 1100 yds (1000 m)
– Size M, medium length - approx. 1375 yds (1250 m)
– Size L, medium length - approx. 1650 yds (1500 m)
– Size XL, medium length - approx. 1925 yds (1750 m)
Tip: For a cropped version or a particularly long cardigan, you will need less or more yarn respectively.
As you work the cardigan top-down, you can first knit the sleeves in the desired length, and then knit the body with the remaining yarn until it is used up.
How to knit raglan
The concept:
While a raglan sweater is knitted in rounds, you work a raglan cardigan flat in rows to achieve the opening at the front.
Increases are worked at four points in every right-side row. By also increasing at the beginning and end of the row, you can shape the neckline.
How to knit raglan
The concept:
While a raglan sweater is knitted in rounds, you work a raglan cardigan flat in rows to achieve the opening at the front.
Increases are worked at four points in every right-side row. By also increasing at the beginning and end of the row, you can shape the neckline.
Essential for your calculations:
Step 2
Calculate Gauge
To calculate the necessary number of stitches for your raglan cardigan, you should determine the following:
How wide or snug do you want the neck to be?
- Measure your neck circumference. - How wide or snug would you like your cardigan to be at the front and back neckline?
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You can use a well-fitting garment as a reference.
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When determining the circumference of the neckline, consider that adding ribbing or collar later on will make it smaller.
Which pattern would you like to knit?
Knitting a gauge swatch and measuring:
- The fit of your raglan cardigan is based on the respective number of stitches and increases.
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Therefore, it is important to work a gauge swatch (4x4” [10x10 cm]) with your yarn in the chosen pattern and with the respective needle size, and to measure and count carefully.
- This is the basis for your calculations to determine the necessary number of stitches for the yarn you will use.
Tip: Please note that depending on the pattern you use, your knits “behave” in different ways. A rib stitch is more likely to contract, so you should calculate a slightly wider circumference, while a fisherman’s rib tends to be wider.
You can also work the sleeves and the body/back in different patterns. That, however, requires a little more attention while knitting the different sections.
Pattern variants
Knitting a raglan with a pattern
- Stockinette Stitch: (very easy for beginners)[green]
- Kraus right (very easy for beginners, does not roll up)[pink]
- Ribbed knitting (will contract a little)[grey]
- Perlmuster (does not roll up)[grey]
- Halbpatentmuster (increased yarn consumption)[blue]
- Patentmuster (increased yarn consumption)
Pattern variants
Knitting a raglan with a pattern
- Stockinette Stitch: (very easy for beginners)[green]
- Kraus right (very easy for beginners, does not roll up)[pink]
- Ribbed knitting (will contract a little)[grey]
- Perlmuster (does not roll up)[grey]
- Halbpatentmuster (increased yarn consumption)[blue]
- Patentmuster (increased yarn consumption)
Step 3
Calculate raglan line
Which look do you prefer for your raglan lines?
- The raglan lines are the four lines where you increase (at the front and the back between body and sleeves) and which give your garment the distinctive raglan look.
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You can work them as a simple knit stitch for a more subtle look (see image with the green piece - very easy for beginners) or make them wider and add a pattern, e.g. a cable or a simpler pattern of knit and purl stitches.
Tip: When using a finer yarn and a small needle size, you can work the raglan lines over more stitches adding a delicate pattern. When working with a thicker yarn and bigger needles, it is advisable to use a smaller number of stitches for the raglan lines.
The chosen pattern determines the number of stitches you have to insert in the Raglan Calculator:
Pattern variants
Raglan line variants
- Raglan line over one stitch for stockinette stitch [green]
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Raglan line over 2 stitches for garter stitch [pink]
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Raglan line over 5 stitches for a 1x1 rib stitch [brown]
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Raglan line over 9 stitches for a 1x1 rib stitch [grey]
Pattern variants
Raglan line variants
- Raglan line over one stitch for stockinette stitch [green]
-
Raglan line over 2 stitches for garter stitch [pink]
-
Raglan line over 5 stitches for a 1x1 rib stitch [brown]
-
Raglan line over 9 stitches for a 1x1 rib stitch [grey]
This is how to knit the raglan cardigan:
Step 4
Cast-on – knitting a raglan cardigan
Step 1: Calculation
- Insert the respective numbers from your gauge swatch, the desired neck circumference and the width of your raglan line in the Raglan Calculator in this app. addi2go App ein.
Tip: Erstelle dir am besten ein Projekt “Raglan Strickjacke”. Dort kann der Raglan-Rechner mit den passenden Werten gespeichert werden (Hinzufügen über + im Projekt). Dort kannst du alle Notizen zu dem Projekt, wie verwendetes Garn, Nadelstärke und Strickmuster als Notiz abspeichern.
Step 2: Casting on
- Now cast on the calculated number of stitches, e.g. with a long-tail cast-on, with the needle size matching your yarn.
-
Important: In order to knit a raglan cardigan rather than a sweater, you do not cast on the stitches for the front, but work increases later on. Therefore, cast on the total amount of stitches minus the stitches for the fronts + 2 (for the edge stitches).
Step 3: Then work a wrong-side row over all cast-on stitches according to your chosen pattern
For example:
- For garter stitch: * 1 edge st, k all sts *
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For stockinette stitch: * 1 edge st, p all sts *
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For a 1x1 rib stitch or fisherman’s rib: * 1 edge st, (k1, p1) repeat, end with p2, k1 *
Step 4
Cast-on – knitting a raglan cardigan
Step 1: Calculation
- Insert the respective numbers from your gauge swatch, the desired neck circumference and the width of your raglan line in the Raglan Calculator in this app. addi2go App ein.
Tip: Erstelle dir am besten ein Projekt “Raglan Strickjacke”. Dort kann der Raglan-Rechner mit den passenden Werten gespeichert werden (Hinzufügen über + im Projekt). Dort kannst du alle Notizen zu dem Projekt, wie verwendetes Garn, Nadelstärke und Strickmuster als Notiz abspeichern.
Step 2: Casting on
- Now cast on the calculated number of stitches, e.g. with a long-tail cast-on, with the needle size matching your yarn.
-
Important: In order to knit a raglan cardigan rather than a sweater, you do not cast on the stitches for the front, but work increases later on. Therefore, cast on the total amount of stitches minus the stitches for the fronts + 2 (for the edge stitches).
Step 3: Then work a wrong-side row over all cast-on stitches according to your chosen pattern
For example:
- For garter stitch: * 1 edge st, k all sts *
-
For stockinette stitch: * 1 edge st, p all sts *
-
For a 1x1 rib stitch or fisherman’s rib: * 1 edge st, (k1, p1) repeat, end with p2, k1 *
Part 5
Raglan distribution
With the help of stitch markers, you now divide the knitted stitches into sections for the right front, sleeve, back, sleeve and left front according to your calculations.
To do this, work one right-side row in your pattern, placing the stitch markers as follows:
- sl1 edge st, place m
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work the number of sts for your raglan line (e.g. 2 sts), place m
-
work the number of sleeve sts, place m
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work the number of sts for your raglan line, place m
-
work the number of back sts, place m
-
work the number of sts for your raglan line, place m
-
work the number of sleeve sts, place m
-
work the number of sts for your raglan line, place m
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k1
Then work one wrong-side row in your chosen pattern, slipping the stitch markers in this row and all following rows from the left to the right needle without changing their positions.
Part 5
Raglan distribution
With the help of stitch markers, you now divide the knitted stitches into sections for the right front, sleeve, back, sleeve and left front according to your calculations.
To do this, work one right-side row in your pattern, placing the stitch markers as follows:
- sl1 edge st, place m
-
work the number of sts for your raglan line (e.g. 2 sts), place m
-
work the number of sleeve sts, place m
-
work the number of sts for your raglan line, place m
-
work the number of back sts, place m
-
work the number of sts for your raglan line, place m
-
work the number of sleeve sts, place m
-
work the number of sts for your raglan line, place m
-
k1
Then work one wrong-side row in your chosen pattern, slipping the stitch markers in this row and all following rows from the left to the right needle without changing their positions.
Part 6
Raglan increases
In every right-side row, you will now increase a total of 8 stitches - one before and one after each raglan line.
Row 1: Right-side row
- sl1 edge st, M1 (right-leaning)
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sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
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work sleeve sts, M1 (right-leaning)
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sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
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work back sts, M1 (right-leaning)
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sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
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work sleeve sts, M1 (right-leaning)
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sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
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k1
Row 2: Wrong-side row
- work all sts according to your pattern
These two rows are the basis for all raglan increases. Depending on your chosen neckline, you alternate them with the increase rows for the neckline (see section after next).
Before repeating them, we recommend shaping the upper back and shoulders with short rows (e.g. German short rows) as described in the next step (optional).
Part 7
Upper back and shoulder shaping (optional)
Due to the human body shape and posture, the cardigan would look shorter in the back, if you knitted the same number of rows for the back and front pieces. To avoid this, you can shape the upper back and shoulders, achieving the perfect fit. Don’t worry, it sounds more complicated than it is.
You simply add some short rows at the back of the cardigan. To make them invisible on the finished piece, you work them in a trapezoid shape: starting with long rows (from shoulder to shoulder) and continuously making them shorter using double stitches, for instance. Depending on your yarn weight, you work 8-12 rows (thicker yarn = less rows, finer yarn = more rows). This way, you give the back a few inches (cm) of additional length.
- for approx. 8 – 12 rows depending on the thickness of the yarn (thick yarn = fewer rows, thin yarn = more rows).
This will add a few centimetres to the length of the back of the cardigan.
Technique and adaption of short rows to your yarn:
- You should have about 3-4 turning points on both ends (i.e. 3-4 right-side and wrong-side short rows each).
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The first turning point is always situated at the sleeve centre (1) - turn and work the wrong-side row up to the centre of the other sleeve, turn (2).
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In the next two rows (right- and wrong-side row) turn the work a few stitches BEFORE reaching the previous turning point (3 and 4). For thicker yarns, the distance between the turning point should be approx. 5 sts, for thinner yarns approx. 10 sts.
- Continue like this until your turning points are placed at the back (here 7 and 8).
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At the centre back there should be a distance of at least 3.25” (8 cm) between the last turning points (see image 2). Observing this automatically yields the necessary number of rows.
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This is how it works:
Shoulder shaping with short rows
We will explain the German Short Rows technique with double stitches (DS).
Start with a raglan increase row (right-side row).
Row 1: Right-side row
- sl1 edge st, M1 (right-leaning)
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sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
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work sleeve sts, M1 (right-leaning)
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sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
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work back sts, M1 (right-leaning)
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sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
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work half the sleeve sts, k1, turn
Row 2: Wrong-side row
- make a DS (sl1 purl-wise with yarn in front, bring the working yarn over the needle and tug, so that the stitch is pulled up and a double stitch forms)
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work all sts in your pattern until reaching the centre of the other sleeve, k1, turn
Row 3: Right-side row
- make a DS and continue in pattern (working the raglan increases) to the last 5-10 sts before the last-worked DS (see section "Adaption of short rows to your yarn").
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k1, turn
Row 4: Wrong-side row
- make a DS (sl1 purl-wise with yarn in front, bring the working yarn over the needle and tug, so that the stitch is pulled up and a double stitch forms)
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work all sts in your pattern to the last 5-10 sts before the last-worked DS, k1, turn
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have worked 3 or 4 DS on each side (at the centre back there should be a distance of at least 3.25” (8 cm) between the last-worked DS).
After making the last DS, continue with a neckline increase row (right-side row).
This is how it works:
Shoulder shaping with short rows
We will explain the German Short Rows technique with double stitches (DS).
Start with a raglan increase row (right-side row).
Row 1: Right-side row
- sl1 edge st, M1 (right-leaning)
-
sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
-
work sleeve sts, M1 (right-leaning)
-
sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
-
work back sts, M1 (right-leaning)
-
sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
-
work half the sleeve sts, k1, turn
Row 2: Wrong-side row
- make a DS (sl1 purl-wise with yarn in front, bring the working yarn over the needle and tug, so that the stitch is pulled up and a double stitch forms)
-
work all sts in your pattern until reaching the centre of the other sleeve, k1, turn
Row 3: Right-side row
- make a DS and continue in pattern (working the raglan increases) to the last 5-10 sts before the last-worked DS (see section "Adaption of short rows to your yarn").
-
k1, turn
Row 4: Wrong-side row
- make a DS (sl1 purl-wise with yarn in front, bring the working yarn over the needle and tug, so that the stitch is pulled up and a double stitch forms)
-
work all sts in your pattern to the last 5-10 sts before the last-worked DS, k1, turn
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have worked 3 or 4 DS on each side (at the centre back there should be a distance of at least 3.25” (8 cm) between the last-worked DS).
After making the last DS, continue with a neckline increase row (right-side row).
Part 8
V-neck rows
The raglan increases for the sleeves and back are now worked in every right-side row. At the same time, you work increases for the V-neck at the beginning and end of the row (place another marker for this).
- The V-neck increases are worked until both fronts of the cardigan (first and last section on you needle) together have the same number of stitches as the back.
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For a regular V-neck, alternate 1 x raglan increase row, 1 x V-neck increase row
Tip: Try on the cardigan during knitting to see whether you like the fit of the neckline.
V-neck increase rows:
- Place a marker after the edge st at the beginning of the row, another one before the edge st at the end of the row. Work increases always right before/after these markers.
Row 1: Right-side row
- sl1 edge st, M1 (right-leaning), sl m, M1 (right-leaning)
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sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
-
work sleeve sts, M1 (right-leaning)
-
sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
-
work back sts, M1 (right-leaning)
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sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
-
work sleeve sts, M1 (right-leaning)
-
sl m, work raglan sts, sl m, M1 (left-leaning)
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sl m, M1 (left-leaning), k1
Row 2: Wrong-side row
- work all sts according to your pattern
Part 9
Separating the sleeves
Repeat the raglan and neckline increase rows until the front pieces and the back reach the desired bust circumference and the raglan lines reach your underarms.
Passformcheck:
Tip 1: To determine the correct length, you can measure from your collarbone to the centre of your underarm with a measuring tape - your raglan lines should reach this measurement before you separate the sleeves from the body.
Tip 2: Using the Gauge Calculator in this app, you can easily determine the necessary number of stitches for your fronts and back to obtain the desired bust circumference - enter the values of your gauge swatch, the desired bust circumference (Step 2 Measurement Calculations) and it will tell you how many stitches you will need. If you have a full bust, see below (2.).
What to do if you only obtain one of the two measurements:
- The bust circumference has been reached, but the sleeves/raglan lines are too small/short: Work a few more rows, increasing only at the sleeves = 4 increases (no further increases at the body and neckline).
-
The sleeve circumference has been reached, but the bust circumference is too small: Work a few more rows, increasing only at the body (fronts and back) = 4 increases (no further increases at the sleeves).
Both measurements are obtained correctly:
In the next right-side row, work the sleeve stitches with additional needles (one for each sleeve) or short addiClick cords as follows, then place them on hold:
Row 1: Right-side row
- sl1 edge st, sl m, work the front sts
-
remove m, work half the raglan sts
-
have a second needle or a short addiClick cord with a matching needle tip ready to work the sleeve sts:
-
work the other half of the raglan sts with the additional needle, remove m
-
work the sleeve sts using the additional needle
-
remove m, work half the next raglan sts with the additional needle - close the cord in the rnd to secure the sts (or place stoppers on the circular needle)
-
-
work the other half of the raglan sts with your main needle**, remove m
-
work the back sts
-
sl m, work half the raglan sts
-
have a third needle or a short addiClick cord with a matching needle tip ready to work the sleeve sts:
-
work the other half of the raglan sts with the additional needle, remove m
-
work the sleeve sts using the additional needle
-
remove m, work half the next raglan sts with the additional needle - close the cord in the rnd to secure the sts (or place stoppers on the circular needle)
-
- work the other half of the raglan sts with your main needle**, remove m
-
work the front sts
Now both your sleeves are placed on separate needles or addiClick cords. The fronts and back are still on your main needle, forming the body.
Next up, you can either knit the sleeves or the body.
Part 9
Separating the sleeves
Repeat the raglan and neckline increase rows until the front pieces and the back reach the desired bust circumference and the raglan lines reach your underarms.
Passformcheck:
Tip 1: To determine the correct length, you can measure from your collarbone to the centre of your underarm with a measuring tape - your raglan lines should reach this measurement before you separate the sleeves from the body.
Tip 2: Using the Gauge Calculator in this app, you can easily determine the necessary number of stitches for your fronts and back to obtain the desired bust circumference - enter the values of your gauge swatch, the desired bust circumference (Step 2 Measurement Calculations) and it will tell you how many stitches you will need. If you have a full bust, see below (2.).
What to do if you only obtain one of the two measurements:
- The bust circumference has been reached, but the sleeves/raglan lines are too small/short: Work a few more rows, increasing only at the sleeves = 4 increases (no further increases at the body and neckline).
-
The sleeve circumference has been reached, but the bust circumference is too small: Work a few more rows, increasing only at the body (fronts and back) = 4 increases (no further increases at the sleeves).
Both measurements are obtained correctly:
In the next right-side row, work the sleeve stitches with additional needles (one for each sleeve) or short addiClick cords as follows, then place them on hold:
Row 1: Right-side row
- sl1 edge st, sl m, work the front sts
-
remove m, work half the raglan sts
-
have a second needle or a short addiClick cord with a matching needle tip ready to work the sleeve sts:
-
work the other half of the raglan sts with the additional needle, remove m
-
work the sleeve sts using the additional needle
-
remove m, work half the next raglan sts with the additional needle - close the cord in the rnd to secure the sts (or place stoppers on the circular needle)
-
-
work the other half of the raglan sts with your main needle**, remove m
-
work the back sts
-
sl m, work half the raglan sts
-
have a third needle or a short addiClick cord with a matching needle tip ready to work the sleeve sts:
-
work the other half of the raglan sts with the additional needle, remove m
-
work the sleeve sts using the additional needle
-
remove m, work half the next raglan sts with the additional needle - close the cord in the rnd to secure the sts (or place stoppers on the circular needle)
-
- work the other half of the raglan sts with your main needle**, remove m
-
work the front sts
Now both your sleeves are placed on separate needles or addiClick cords. The fronts and back are still on your main needle, forming the body.
Next up, you can either knit the sleeves or the body.
Part 10
Knitting body
You will now join the fronts and back for the body in a wrong-side row. At the underarms, where the sleeve sts have been placed on hold, cast on a few sts (2-6 sts, depending on the yarn weight). The more stitches are picked up, the wider the sleeve becomes.
Then continue working the body in rows in your chosen pattern.
- The fit of the body can be straight (for a slimmer body type or a shorter/cropped cardigan).
-
Should you need a little more space in the hip area or want a long cardigan, work further increases along the body.
Measure your hip circumference and the current circumference of the body (bust), then calculate the difference and the necessary number of stitches and increases based on the gauge swatch.
Also determine the desired length of your cardigan (from underarm to the desired hem line). Based on these values and the gauge swatch, you can calculate the necessary number of rows.
By dividing the calculated number of rows by half the number of calculated increases, you obtain the increase rows.
- In each increase row, work two increases, e.g. at the underarms/side lines. Place a stitch marker at every increase, so they are easier to count.
Schritt 11
Finishing the body/Hem
You can work a simple bind-off at the lower edge of your cardigan(e.g. when working in garter or seed stitch).
- To do so, knit until the cardigan has the desired length, then just bind off all stitches in the last row.
- K2 sts, pass the back stitch over the front stitch
- Always k1 sts and pass the back stitch over the front stitch. Leave the thread quite loose.
Another option is an I-cord bind-offthat can also be continued around the front opening of the cardigan.
Or you knit a classic ribbed hem (e.g. for patterns that otherwise would roll up, like stockinette stitch, or to finish a fisherman’s rib).
- To do so, knit until the cardigan is a little shorter than the desired length - the ribbing should be at least 1.25” (3 cm) long to prevent the edge from rolling up. Of course, you can work it significantly longer, e.g. 4” (10 cm) as a design feature.
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Work the hem with a smaller needle (1 number/0.5 mm), so it contracts a little.
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Work a rib stitch (e.g. [k1, p1] or [k2, p2]).
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Then use a stretchy bind-off to finish the hem. Instructions on how to bind off elastic
- Bei einem 1re, 1 li Rippenmuster kann beispielsweise auch italienisch abgenäht werden. Instructional video in Italian elastic binding off
Tip: Even if you don’t want the hem to contract, use a smaller needle working a few evenly distributed increases in the first right-side row. Thus, you achieve a more sophisticated look.
Use any technique you like.
Hems and cuff variants
- Rib stitch hem after Fisherman’s rib - a simple bind-off
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Rib stitch hem after stockinette stitch - italian bind-off
Hems and cuff variants
- Rib stitch hem after Fisherman’s rib - a simple bind-off
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Rib stitch hem after stockinette stitch - italian bind-off
Schritt 12
Knitting raglan sleeves
Finally, you will reactivate the stitches on hold to knit the sleeves. To do so, you can use a short circular needle or addiClick Short. An addiCraSyTrio Long also works well for knitting sleeves, or you can use a long circular needle and the Magic Loop technique.
- The sleeves are tapered, that means their circumference decreases towards the cuff. For a snug fit, measure your wrist circumference and write it down.
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You can also work them wider (yarn consumption increases). Use a measuring tape to determine the desired circumference at the wrist.
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Next, you need to determine the sleeve length, measuring from your underarm to your wrist.
Based on the wrist circumference, you can now calculate the necessary number of stitches, as well as the number of rounds based on the determined sleeve length.
Use the gauge and these values to calculate how often and in which rounds you need to decrease 1 st on the inside of the sleeve.
Number of rounds: required decreases = 1 decrease in every Xth round
Work the sleeves in the same pattern as the body. Work the decreases on the inside of the sleeve, placing a stitch marker at the beginning/end of the round. Alternate decreases before and after the stitch marker, working 2 sts together in the necessary rounds (following your calculations). Important - As you knit in the round now, your chosen pattern is worked in a different way than before, when you were knitting in rows!
Like the body, you can finish the sleeves by simply casting off or by working a ribbed cuff. See the tips regarding finishing and casting-off in the previous section.
Schritt 12
Knitting raglan sleeves
Finally, you will reactivate the stitches on hold to knit the sleeves. To do so, you can use a short circular needle or addiClick Short. An addiCraSyTrio Long also works well for knitting sleeves, or you can use a long circular needle and the Magic Loop technique.
- The sleeves are tapered, that means their circumference decreases towards the cuff. For a snug fit, measure your wrist circumference and write it down.
-
You can also work them wider (yarn consumption increases). Use a measuring tape to determine the desired circumference at the wrist.
-
Next, you need to determine the sleeve length, measuring from your underarm to your wrist.
Based on the wrist circumference, you can now calculate the necessary number of stitches, as well as the number of rounds based on the determined sleeve length.
Use the gauge and these values to calculate how often and in which rounds you need to decrease 1 st on the inside of the sleeve.
Number of rounds: required decreases = 1 decrease in every Xth round
Work the sleeves in the same pattern as the body. Work the decreases on the inside of the sleeve, placing a stitch marker at the beginning/end of the round. Alternate decreases before and after the stitch marker, working 2 sts together in the necessary rounds (following your calculations). Important - As you knit in the round now, your chosen pattern is worked in a different way than before, when you were knitting in rows!
Like the body, you can finish the sleeves by simply casting off or by working a ribbed cuff. See the tips regarding finishing and casting-off in the previous section.
Schritt 13
Finishing the raglan cardigan with optional button band or I-cord
I-Cord Rand
The lower edges of the body and the sleeves are now ready, and the front edge and neckline of your cardigan also have a nice look due to the edge stitches. However, you can accentuate them with an I-cord, for instance - maybe in a contrast colour?
An I-cord edge can also end in two cords that can be used to tie a bow and close the cardigan.
Front band in rib stitch
You can also add a front band in rib stitch - working either horizontally or vertically to the edge of your cardigan. This kind of band can also include buttonholes to close your raglan cardigan.
For this finish, pick up stitches all around the edge of the front opening using a new strand of yarn and a long circular needle (47” [120 cm] addiClick cord) and work the ribbing directly on the cardigan (horizontally), or cast on the front band on an additional needle joining (we recommend addiDuett)it to the cardigan by working the last stitch of the band together with the edge stitch of the cardigan.
Tip: It is very important to knit a gauge swatch in rib stitch and carefully measure how many stitches per 4” (10 cm) you need to pick up along the front edge. Otherwise, the front band could end up too short (the cardigan will contract and pucker) or too long (the front band puckers).
Schritt 13
Finishing the raglan cardigan with optional button band or I-cord
I-Cord Rand
The lower edges of the body and the sleeves are now ready, and the front edge and neckline of your cardigan also have a nice look due to the edge stitches. However, you can accentuate them with an I-cord, for instance - maybe in a contrast colour?
An I-cord edge can also end in two cords that can be used to tie a bow and close the cardigan.
Front band in rib stitch
You can also add a front band in rib stitch - working either horizontally or vertically to the edge of your cardigan. This kind of band can also include buttonholes to close your raglan cardigan.
For this finish, pick up stitches all around the edge of the front opening using a new strand of yarn and a long circular needle (47” [120 cm] addiClick cord) and work the ribbing directly on the cardigan (horizontally), or cast on the front band on an additional needle joining (we recommend addiDuett)it to the cardigan by working the last stitch of the band together with the edge stitch of the cardigan.
Tip: It is very important to knit a gauge swatch in rib stitch and carefully measure how many stitches per 4” (10 cm) you need to pick up along the front edge. Otherwise, the front band could end up too short (the cardigan will contract and pucker) or too long (the front band puckers).
Raglan calculator available for free in the addi2go app
addi2go free raglan calculator
- The raglan calculator in the free addi2go app makes it easy to calculate the number of stitches to pick up, taking into account your own gauge and the desired neckline.
- The width of the raglan line and the distribution of the stitches can be precisely specified and read.
- It can be used to knit both raglan jumpers and raglan cardigans.
addi2go free gauge calculator
- The gauge calculator makes it easy to determine values, e.g. how many stitches are needed for the sleeve width or have to be picked up for the appropriate hip width.
- To use the ‘measurement calculator’, simply fill in the fields above in step 1 and enter the desired measurements in cm or inches in step 2.
Raglan calculator available for free in the addi2go app
addi2go free raglan calculator
- The raglan calculator in the free addi2go app makes it easy to calculate the number of stitches to pick up, taking into account your own gauge and the desired neckline.
- The width of the raglan line and the distribution of the stitches can be precisely specified and read.
- It can be used to knit both raglan jumpers and raglan cardigans.
addi2go free gauge calculator
- The gauge calculator makes it easy to determine values, e.g. how many stitches are needed for the sleeve width or have to be picked up for the appropriate hip width.
- To use the ‘measurement calculator’, simply fill in the fields above in step 1 and enter the desired measurements in cm or inches in step 2.
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