Toe-up – for all types of needles

Toe-up classic heel (flap and gusset alternative)

The toe up Classic Heel is a little different than the Classic Heel for toe-up socks. The flap is worked with german short rows.

Step by step we explain how to knit the horseshoe heel – with addiCraSyTrio, DPN or Sockwonder.

Table of contents

Characteristics of the classic heel Toe Up:

Foot instep height: ♥♥♥♡♡

Wide heel: ♥♥♥♡♡

Yarn consumption: Medium

Technique: ↑ Toe-Up

Customizability: You can work more or fewer increases (e.g. work increases in each round at the end instead of every second round) to change the fit for a higher instep.

How it works – Part 1 – Knitting toe up Classic Heel

Knitting Classic Heel – gusset

If you want to knit the Classic Heel after the foot section, you will need to knit Gusset Increases. Therefore, the foot is knitted a little shorter according to the sock chart, and then you knit a number of more rounds of gusset increases according to the sock chart. Then start the heel.

The Gussets at the end of the foot part are knitted as follows:

addiCraSyTrio – the gusset increases are knitted at the beginning and end of the 1st needle (the heel will also be worked on this needle later). The other needle is simply knitted in the round.

Double-pointed needles – the gusset increases are knitted at the beginning of the first needle and at the end of the second needle, or at the beginning of the fourth needle and the end of the first needle, depending on which two needles the heel is to be worked over.

Sockwonder – place a stitch marker at the half of your stitches and work the gusset increases in front of it.

How it works – Part 1 – Knitting toe up Classic Heel

Knitting Classic Heel – gusset

The Gussets at the end of the foot part are knitted as follows:

addiCraSyTrio – the gusset increases are knitted at the beginning and end of the 1st needle (the heel will also be worked on this needle later). The other needle is simply knitted in the round.

Sockwonder – place a stitch marker at the half of your stitches and work the gusset increases in front of it.

Knit gussets

Round 1: k1, 1 increase (Knit Stitch in Row below) k all sts (of 1 Trio needle or 2 DPN needles), 1 increase (in row below) before the last stitch of the needle, k1. Knit remaining stitches of the round.
Round 2: knit all

Repeat round one and two according to the sock table row ” Classic Heel number of increases”.

Tip: If the instep is to be particularly high or flat, simply knit more or less increases.

Knit gussets

Round 1: k1, 1 increase (Knit Stitch in Row below) k all sts (of 1 Trio needle or 2 DPN needles), 1 increase (in row below) before the last stitch of the needle, k1. Knit remaining stitches of the round.
Round 2: knit all

Repeat round one and two according to the sock table row ” Classic Heel number of increases”.

Tip: If the instep is to be particularly high or flat, simply knit more or less increases.

Sock chart toe-up – Classic Heel

Sock chart Toe-Up 4-ply:

Sock wool 4‐ply (420m, 100g) (384 yd, 3.5 oz)
Gauge: 30 stitches/ 42 rows = 4″x4″ (10×10 cm)

Size	22/23	24/25	26/27	28/29	30/31	32/33	34/35	36/37	38/39	40/41	42/43	44/45	46/47	48/49
Stitches total	40	44	48	48	52	52	56	56	60	60	64	68	72	76
Sts per needle addiCraSyTrio	20	22	24	24	26	26	28	28	30	30	32	34	36	38
Sts per needle dpn	10	11	12	12	13	13	14	14	15	15	16	17	18	19
Total foot length (cm)	14,5	16	17,5	18,5	20	21,5	22,5	24	25,5	26,5	28	29,5	30,5	31
Sts for heel	20	22	24	24	26	26	28	28	30	30	32	34	36	38
Heels:
Length toe to beginning of heel (cm) Classic heel II (Toe-Up)	8,5	9,5	10	11,5	12	13,5	14	15	16	17	17,5	19	19,5	20
No. of short row sts Classic heel II (Toe-Up)	4	4	5	5	5	5	6	6	6	6	7	7	7	8
No. of gusset increases for Classic heel II (Toe-Up)	8	9	10	10	11	11	12	12	13	13	14	14	15	16
Three-way split Classic Heel + Boomerang Heel	7/6/7	7/8/7	8/8/8	8/8/8	9/8/9	9/8/9	9/10/9	9/10/9	10/10/10	10/10/10	11/10/11	11/12/11	12/12/12	12/14/12
Length toe to beginning of heel (cm) Boomerang Heel	11	12	13,5	14,5	16	17	18	19	20,5	21	22,5	24	25	26

Sock chart Toe-Up 6-ply:

Sock wool 6‐ply (380m, 150g) (347 yd, 5.3 oz)
Gauge: 22 stitches/ 30 rows = 4″x4″ (10×10 cm)

Size	22/23	24/25	26/27	28/29	30/31	32/33	34/35	36/37	38/39	40/41	42/43	44/45	46/47	48/49
Stitches total	32	36	36	40	40	44	44	48	48	52	52	56	56	60
Sts per needle addiCraSyTrio	16	18	18	20	20	22	22	24	24	26	26	28	28	30
Sts per needle dpn	8	9	9	10	10	11	11	12	12	13	13	14	14	15
Total foot length (cm/inch))	14,5	16	17,5	18,5	20	21,5	22,5	24	25,5	26,5	28	29,5	30,5	31
Sts for heel	16	18	18	20	20	22	22	24	24	26	26	28	36	38
Heels:
Length toe to beginning of heel (cm) Classic heel II (Toe-Up)	10	10,5	11,5	12	12,5	13,5	14	15	15,5	16,5	17	18,5	19	19,5
No. of short row sts Classic heel II (Toe-Up)	2	3	3	4	4	4	4	5	5	5	6	6	6	6
No. of gusset increases for Classic heel II (Toe-Up)	5	6	7	7	8	8	9	9	10	10	11	11	12	13
Three-way split Classic Heel + Boomerang Heel	5/6/5	6/6/6	6/6/6	6/8/6	6/8/6	7/8/7	7/8/7	8/8/8	8/8/8	8/10/8	8/10/8	9/10/9	9/10/9	10/10/10
Length toe to beginning of heel (cm) Boomerang Heel	11	12	13,5	14,5	16	17	18	19	20,5	21	22,5	24	25	26

Sock chart Toe-Up 8-ply:

Sock wool 8‐ply (300m, 150g) (274 yd, 5.3 oz)
Gauge: 20 stitches/ 28 rows = 4″x4″ (10×10 cm)

Size	22/23	24/25	26/27	28/29	30/31	32/33	34/35	36/37	38/39	40/41	42/43	44/45	46/47	48/49
Stitches total	28	32	32	36	36	40	40	44	44	48	48	52	52	56
Sts per needle addiCraSyTrio	14	16	16	18	18	20	20	22	22	24	24	26	26	28
Sts per needle dpn	7	8	8	9	9	10	10	11	11	12	12	13	13	14
Total foot length (cm)	14,5	16	17,5	18,5	20	21,5	22,5	24	25,5	26,5	28	29,5	30,5	31
Sts for heel	14	16	16	18	18	20	20	22	22	24	24	26	26	28
Heels:
Length toe to beginning of heel (cm) Classic heel II (Toe-Up)	10,5	11	11,5	12,5	13	13,5	14	14,5	15	16	16,5	18	18,5	19
No. of short row sts Classic heel II (Toe-Up)	2	2	3	3	3	3	4	4	4	4	5	5	5	5
No. of gusset increases for Classic heel II (Toe-Up)	3	4	5	5	6	6	7	7	8	8	9	9	10	11
Three-way split Classic Heel + Boomerang Heel	4/6/4	5/6/5	5/6/5	6/6/6	6/6/6	6/8/6	6/8/6	7/8/7	7/8/7	8/8/8	8/8/8	8/10/8	8/10/8	9/10/9
Length toe to beginning of heel (cm) Boomerang Heel	11	12	13,5	14,5	16	17	18	19	20,5	21	22,5	24	25	26

Part 2 – Knitting toe up Classic Heel

Knitting Classic Heel – knitting short rows

For the toe-up Classic heel, knit short rows with double stitches. This creates a round heel.

Now knit over half of your stitches in rows:

addiCraSyTrio – Use the stitches of the first needle and knit in rows.

DPN – Knit all the stitches for the heel on one needle. It is easier to knit that way.

addiSockwonder – Place a stitch marker at the half of your stitches and knit over the first half only.

Part 2 – Knitting toe up Classic Heel

Knitting Classic Heel – knitting short rows

For the toe-up Classic heel, knit short rows with double stitches. This creates a round heel.

Now knit over half of your stitches in rows:

addiCraSyTrio – Use the stitches of the first needle and knit in rows.

DPN – Knit all the stitches for the heel on one needle. It is easier to knit that way.

addiSockwonder – Place a stitch marker at the half of your stitches and knit over the first half only.

Knitting short rows with double stitches:

Row 1 (RS): Knit over the gusset increases and knit stitches to 1 st before the gusset increase at the end of the needle. Optionally, a stitch marker can be placed here. Turn work.

Row 2 (WS): Knit the first st as a double stitch (video 9:50). Purl until 1 st before the first gusset stitch at the end of the needle. Turn work.

Row 3 (RS): Knit the first st as a double stitch. Knit all sts until 1 st before double stitch. Turn work.

Row 4 (WS): Knit the first st as a double stitch. Purl all sts until 1 st before double stitch. Turn work.

Repeat row 3 and 4 as several times as indicated in the sock chart.

Knitting short rows with double stitches:

Row 1 (RS): Knit over the gusset increases and knit stitches to 1 st before the gusset increase at the end of the needle. Optionally, a stitch marker can be placed here. Turn work.

Row 2 (WS): Knit the first st as a double stitch (video 9:50). Purl until 1 st before the first gusset stitch at the end of the needle. Turn work.

Row 3 (RS): Knit the first st as a double stitch. Knit all sts until 1 st before double stitch. Turn work.

Row 4 (WS): Knit the first st as a double stitch. Purl all sts until 1 st before double stitch. Turn work.

Repeat row 3 and 4 as several times as indicated in the sock chart.

Part 3 – Knitting toe up Classic Heel

Knitting toe up Classic Heel – knitting flap

When the short rows are knitted according to the table, the heel flap is worked. All double stitches are knitted off as one stitch each.

Part 3 – Knitting toe up Classic Heel

Knitting toe up Classic Heel – knitting flap

When the short rows are knitted according to the table, the heel flap is worked. All double stitches are knitted off as one stitch each.

Knitting flap

Right Side (RS): Knit all heel stitches. Knit the last heel stitch and the first gusset increase stitch at the end of the row, kbl (knit through back loop) together. Turn work.

Wrong Side (WS): Slip one st, purl all sts. At the end of the row, purl together the last heel stitch with the first gusset stitch. Turn work.

A gap is now formed between the heel stitches and the gusset stitches.

Repeat the RS and WS, always knitting the last heel stitch together with the gusset stitch behind the gap. Repeat the rows until there is still one gusset stitch left on each side. End with a WS.

Knitting flap

Right Side (RS): Knit all heel stitches. Knit the last heel stitch and the first gusset increase stitch at the end of the row, kbl (knit through back loop) together. Turn work.

Wrong Side (WS): Slip one st, purl all sts. At the end of the row, purl together the last heel stitch with the first gusset stitch. Turn work.

A gap is now formed between the heel stitches and the gusset stitches.

Repeat the RS and WS, always knitting the last heel stitch together with the gusset stitch behind the gap. Repeat the rows until there is still one gusset stitch left on each side. End with a WS.

Part 4 – Knitting toe up Classic Heel

Finishing – knitting in rounds

Now the sock is knitted again in the round. For this purpose, the RS row is now simply knitted further over the next needle – stockinet or in the pattern of the sock.

After a half-round, knit the last gusset stitch together with the next heel stitch. Now knit the leg of your sock. How to do it is described in the Toe-Up sock tutorial.

You finished your Classic Heel.

Part 4 – Knitting toe up Classic Heel

Finishing – knitting in rounds

Now the sock is knitted again in the round. For this purpose, the RS row is now simply knitted further over the next needle – stockinet or in the pattern of the sock.

After a half-round, knit the last gusset stitch together with the next heel stitch. Now knit the leg of your sock. How to do it is described in the Toe-Up sock tutorial.

You finished your Classic Heel.

Video – Knitting toe up Classic Heel

Knitting toe up Classic Heel – CraSy Sylvie shows how it’s done – in the tutorial video she shows step by step how to knit a horseshoe heel.

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Back to the Toe-Up sock tutorial:

Knitting toe up socks with addiCraSyTrio (FlexiFlips)

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